Professional Sommelier -- otherworldly being, or down-to-earth wine friend?
- By Melissa Moholt-Siebert
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- 17 Aug, 2019
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featuring Ryan Baldwin and Nicole Alonso of Margeaux Brasserie in Chicago
This is part of an ongoing focus on professionals in the wine world who we love! Sometimes Winemakers or Somms or Wine Directors seem like they’re in some other world - completely inaccessible to mere mortals.
But in this series we will share the amazing wine knowledge combined with down-to-earth nature of some of our favorite wine professionals.



Was there an "ah-ha wine" -- one that really turned you on to wine?
Nicole: “I didn't have a specific “ah-ha” wine, but definitely a region -- Bordeaux.”
Ryan: “I don’t remember having any single wine that made me more interested in the wine world. I have had some “ah-ha moments” though. I was living in Paris with my wife, and we were living on grad student budgets, so the wine we drank was of very poor quality. We would go to the grocery store (Carrefour, still my favorite) down the street and get basic bottles of “Bordeaux” or “Cotes du Rhône” for around 2 euro. Then we became good friends with an American couple and they would invite us over for dinner. They were older -- she was the lead singer of an American band that was very popular in Europe in the 80’s -- and they were definitely more well-off than we were. They would open wines that were absolutely amazing. I was too young to really appreciate the wine and afterwards we would return home to our 2 euro Carrefour bottles. But that’s where my “ah-ha moment” really happened: I learned about quality vs. quantity and why you need to pay a bit more for a bottle of wine, unless you’re just looking for a cheap buzz…”
What wine(s) (or other beverage) do you drink at home with family and friends?
Ryan: “When I’m at home, I’ll generally have a beer or two before having some wine. Usually something simple, generally lager based. When I get together with friends we most definitely are drinking wine. I love Champagne and Chardonnay. Old world is preferred, but I do love me some California.”
Nicole: “I have a whole list.... Dad = Merlot/Scotch; Mom = Prosecco/Cosmo's; Sister = pretty much any wine/Margaritas; Husband = Malbec/Miller Light; Grandparents = whatever is open and only about an ounce; Most of my friends = are in the industry, soooo it’s whatever is available ;)”
How did you get started in the restaurant business? How did you get started as a Somm?
Ryan: “I started in this business in high school. I worked at a diner (Bakers Square) a few miles from my house. Running food, bussing tables, hosting, cashier, and serving were all parts of the gig. I continued working as a waiter after I moved downtown, while I went to college. Eventually I found myself working as a waiter at a Steakhouse with an extensive wine list and a Sommelier. I seemed to be the dumbest person in the room when it came to anything wine related, so I started reading books and educating myself.”
Nicole: “I've always been in the industry. I started when I was 15 at McDonalds, made the climb to more up-scale restaurants, and then moved to Chicago. My first job in Chicago had a Sommelier, Marlon Paxtor. My wine knowledge back then was red, white and pink. So of course I didn’t know what a Somm was. He took me to my first wine tasting, which was the current release of Grand Crus of Bordeaux. I fell in love with a world I had no grasp on. So I decided to pursue it.”
Are there any restauranteurs or somms or books or podcasts that have been important to you in your restaurant/wine education?
Nicole: “Yes, three women in particular: Alexandria Sarovich, Reena Patel, and Cassie Sakai. They believed in me even when I didn’t. For that, I will always be thankful. I love you ladies! And Ryan Baldwin: for always being down-to-earth as well as someone to look up to, and for giving me an opportunity to work alongside him. Finally, I am super visual with my studies, so if you haven't seen Wine Folly.com, you should -- it’s a really cool site.”
Ryan: “The first person that I attribute my passion to wine is the gentleman who was working as the Sommelier at the first Chicago Steakhouse I waited tables in. His name is Blake Leja, and he was kind enough to take the time to educate me when I was just a pup. When I was studying for my certified Sommelier exam, he would set up blinds for me and then give me real-time feedback. The second person is Master Sommelier Fernando Beteta. Fernando was kind enough to invite me to blind taste with him a couple years ago, and we have been meeting regularly ever since. He preaches the art of humble, and is one of the best mentors anyone in this industry could ask for.”
Do you have any stories (real or imagined) about Greg LaFollette?
Ryan: “I met Greg previously, although he probably doesn’t remember. I had just passed my introductory Sommelier exam and was working at a steakhouse in Chicago as the Sommelier. It was my first ever Somm job and I was meeting with winemakers and reps and learning everything I could, while trying to play the role of educated wine buyer... Greg came in and we tasted through his lineup; I instantly knew that this man had more wine knowledge in his little finger than any winemaker I had met previously.”
Nicole: “I have heard that there was a bunny suit incident, but I can’t find anyone with photos…”
What is special about the Chicago dining scene? Any shout-outs you want to give to other restaurants/wine lists/Somms??
Ryan: “Chicago remains a major player in the international food scene. I think we’re one of the best food cities in the world for fine dining and higher-end casual fare. The city also has a strong supportive Sommelier community. “All ships rise with the tide” is the mindset. Andrew Algren at The Chicago Athletic Association Hotel has a strong wine program. He’s a lover of all things Riesling and I use his list as a study tool for relevant German and Austrian producers. Aaron McManus at Oriole has a fantastic wine program. The restaurant is a tasting menu concept, and his pairings are on point. He is definitely a force behind their 2 Michelin stars. Matt Sussman at Table, Donkey, & Stick has the Tuesday night industry crowd locked down. Terroir Tuesday is a weekly event that showcases glasses of unique wines at a discount. Generally vintage Champagne or small production wines; it’s always filled with restaurant professionals. Outside of Chicago, for those of you in the Santa Monica area, be sure to check out the tasting menu at Dialogue, which is an 18 seat restaurant by Chef Dave Beran and Beverage Director Jordon Sipperly. If Los Angeles had Michelin Stars, this place would certainly have a couple.”

Do you have education or certification or awards in the wine world? Tell us about them.
Nicole: “Well, in the last few years I placed 2nd in Somm Madness. It was surreal, as my goal had been to not embarrass myself and get knocked out first round. Haha! I ended up almost winning -- still can’t believe it! However, I am going for the top spot next year, so keep an eye out! I also placed 1st in SevenFifty's Supertaster's contest and then 2nd in Geja's blind competition.”
Ryan: “I am currently a Certified Sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers, and I hope to pass the Advanced exam in the next year or so. I have come close to passing, but I still need some fine-tuning.”
What goals do you have or experiences you hope to have in a wine world?
Ryan: “My goals are simple. I just want to be the best beverage professional I can be, day in and day out. I want to inspire others the way that my mentors inspire me. I also want to be a good father and husband, and I want to make my family proud.”
Nicole: “I would love to continue on as Wine Director one day. I want to stay relaxed with wine; it can be intimidating, as I remember well, so whatever I take on, I want to keep a warmth to my presence in the wine world.”
Anything else we should know about the daily life of a Somm? Is it as glamorous as it seems?!?
Nicole: “So, my position with Margeaux is a pretty big deal for me. This is my first time having a say in a wine list, being a buyer, and everything that follows. It’s definitely a full day, but I love it! Tasting is pretty much a quarter of the job; it’s also keeping up the list, education, management of projects, inventory, and learning new ways of navigating the restaurant day-to-day.”
Ryan: “I love the fact that my days are never the same and that I am always learning new things! But the life of a Sommelier isn’t all fine wine and parties! The hours are long, the work is difficult, and you have to be comfortable spending time away from your family. A good beverage program is one that makes money for the restaurant, and still makes the guests feel like they are getting something of value in return.”
If I am asked to select the wine at a restaurant, can you give me some advice for the following situations:
-- with a bunch of friends who are looking for an evening of lively conversation?
Ryan: “Cru Beaujolais. It’s super drinkable, and never expensive. Beaujolais is not a fussy wine, and it embodies that “lively conversation” vibe.”
Nicole: “Bubbles! It’s an excellent starter to a dinner and pairs with a bunch of items on the menu!”
-- with my somewhat intimidating boss who likes his steaks medium rare and his wines expensive?
Nicole: “Go with that Opus One! It has such a history and is sure to impress him!”
Ryan: “Old Bordeaux of a strong vintage. Or 2007 Napa Cab - specifically Oakville or Howell Mountain. 2007 seems to be the “intimidating boss” vintage in Napa.”
-- with the person I think I want to spend the rest of my life with?
Ryan: “Champagne! (Duh!). Mono cru, specifically Bouzy or Ambonnay. Single-vineyard if you can get it; definitely vintage. I love Champagne!”
Nicole: “I recommend you get something you both enjoy. That shows that you will work together for those years to come.”
-- with my drab uncle from Duluth?
Nicole: “Malort. Haha! Chicago peeps will get this -- and if you haven't tried it, get a shot for that next dinner with your drab uncle!”
Ryan: “How about a 6 pack of PBR or a hoppy “session IPA” from one of Chicago’s small breweries. Begyle Brewing, or Half Acre Beer Co. Those are legit.”
-- with my god-daughter as she begins her wine education?
Ryan: “I would preach the gospel of Puligny or Chassagne. Show her what great wine is and should be. Then let her go back and drink her 2 euro Carrefour wine in the hopes of inspiring her to be a hospitality-driven Chicago Sommelier…”
WOW - we hope you enjoyed this as much as we did! What great folks!!! Next time you’re in Chicago, stop into Margeaux Brasserie and say hello from us. As you can tell, Ryan and Nicole will be very thoughtful and generous guides for your dining experience.


